Tuesday, March 12, 2013

The Alden Shoe Company



The Alden Shoe Company, located in Middleborough, MA is a family-owned business that began in 1884.  Alden specializes in hand-made shoes, and while they use a few different types of leather, they are best known for their shell cordovan makeups.

Arthur Tarlow JR. (left) President
Inspecting his company's product


Alden has stuck with tradition in resisting the adoption of techniques used in mass production and cost cutting.  As a consequence they manufacture a high-quality shoe that can last 20-30 years or more if properly cared for.

Alden shoes use  Goodyear welt construction, in which a strip of leather is stitched to the shoe upper, and then the sole is stitched to the the same strip (the welt).  On many inferior quality shoes, the sole is simply affixed to the upper with an adhesive.  The Goodyear welt allows for a shoe to be resoled numerous times, thus increasing the life of the shoe.

Alden Shoe getting it's Goodyear welt

Other quality features include a quarter-inch layer of cork beneath the insole.  This not only aids in shock absorption, but also creates a custom fit, as the foot sinks in the cork and leaves it's own distinctive impression.

A tripple-ribbed tempered steel shank is also imbedded in the sole of the shoe to provide superior support and rigidity.

Shoes during production with cork and shank visible


Due to their high-quality and comfort, Alden is commissioned with producing all of the boots for the Massachusetts State Troopers.  Alden also offers an orthopedic line of shoes to accommodate those with irregular shaped feet.

Perhaps Alden's biggest claim to fame is the appearance of their model 403 in the Indiana Jones movies.  It is rumored that Harrison Ford, who was a carpenter before he became an actor, insisted on wearing the orthopedic work boots during the filming of the movies, as he swore by their all-day comfort.  This model soon became informally known as the "Indy Boot"


(Note the irregular contoured shape of the "Foot Balance" heel)

Model 403 "Indy Boot"

Alden also offers restoration services for their shoes and boots, during which, the original last (mold) is inserted in to the shoe before the sole and cork layer are removed and replaced.  The upper is refinished, laces replaced, and any loose stitching is fixed.  After this is done, the shoes look almost new.

Alden is the brand of choice for many shell cordovan enthusiasts.  This is not only because of their quality construction, but also their long experience in working with the material.  Many say that Alden has a proprietary finishing method for shell cordovan, that gives the leather an extra shine and waxy gloss that other cordovan shoes lack.

One of the difficulties in collecting Alden shoes, other than their scarce availability, is sizing.  Alden uses about a dozen different lasts, which are molds over which the shoe is formed.  Each last has a different shape, and since everybody's feet have different proportions, the only way to determine one's size in a particular last is to try on multiple sizes.  Since Alden retailers are far and few between, and their inventory is limited, it can take years for someone to zero in on their size for all of the different lasts.  Below is a chart that includes profiles of most of Alden's lasts, and some general sizing guidelines, however, they are by no means considered infallible.


(Note: The labels indicate last, not model name)

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