Shell Cordovan Care and Maintenance

If properly taken care of, shell cordovan can last for over 30 years.  Many find that it looks better with age, as it develops a nice patina.  The most widely accepted approach for maintaining shell cordovan is known as "The Mac Method", named for its originator, online shoe forum personality "Uncle Mac", who has by far the most extensive collection of shell cordovan Alden shoes on the Web.  (His collection is conservatively estimated at 50+ pairs.)

The "Mac Method"

1. Wipe down with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt

2. Brush rigorously with a horse hair brush (about 5 min per shoe)

3. Buff to a shine with a flannel cloth

4. Apply paste wax only as needed, 15 wearings minimum between applications

5. Wear in good health

Some items for maintaining shell cordovan

Horse Hair Brush

(Many enthusiasts insist on

one for every color to prevent cross

contamination of pigment)

Venetian Shoe Cream

Cleans and Moisturizes

Use sparingly, it contains turpentine

which can remove some of the finish

Paste Wax

Shines and protects

Always use the appropriate color

Never use cream polish on

shell cordovan!

Saphir Cordovan Creme

Moisturizes and adds color

neatsfoot oil based

contains no turpentine

alternative or compliment to wax

Edge Dressing

Used to Touch-up nicks

on the dyed edge of the sole

One of the most heavily cited benefits of shell cordovan is its durability.  Below are before and after shots of a scuff that was brushed out using a little Venetian shoe cream, a horse hair brush and a lot of elbow grease. 

 Before

 Before

 After

After

Rancourt Blake Boot in Espresso Shell Cordovan

While many regard Alden as the masters of shell cordovan, there are other shoemakers that use the leather too.  Rancourt & Company, of Lewiston, ME is one example.  Like Alden and Horween, Rancourt is also a multi-generational family owned business.  They receive un-dyed (natural) shells from Horween and dye them in house.  While they do not have the same waxy gloss finish typical of Alden shoes, they still do a nice job and are more readily available.  In fact, Rancourt makes every pair to order, and allows a high level of customization.  This pair was specifically ordered in Espresso shell with white stitching, shiny nickel eyelets, orange lining, black tongue gusset, natural midsole, brown edge stain and a tempest sole.

As a side note, Rancourt also makes great boat shoes and penny loafers.

Other Alden Shell Cordovan Shades

Alden also offers two more "exotic" colors of shell cordovan, in addition to Cigar, #8 and Black that were shown previously. The first is a medium redish brown called Ravello

Alden Ravello Long Wing Blucher

The second, and most "exotic" color is a shade of tan called Whiskey.  Being the lightest color, Whiskey requires the most perfect shells, as not even slight imperfections can be covered up through the dying process.

Alden Whiskey Plain Toe Blucher

Very, very rarely does Alden produce a cinnamon red color known as #4.  This color is extremely hard to get, and is only awarded to Alden's most valuable retailers.  It only comes about once every few years.

Alden Color 4 Cap-toe Boots

Alden Shell Cordovan Belts

Everyone knows that the belt is supposed to match the shoes.  In the past, Alden has produced shell cordovan belts to help achieve this.  They came in two widths, 35mm or 30mm, and with either a gold or nickel buckle.  Currently Alden is not producing any cordovan belts, perhaps because they are using all of their allocation of scarce shell to make shoes.

Alden Shell Cordovan Belts

35mm Nickel Buckel

Cigar Top, #8 Bottom

Note that the belts are made of 3 separate strips of leather sewn together.  This is because the part of the horse used to make shell cordovan is not wide to make a belt out of a single piece of leather.  Many argue that "shell cordovan" belts that are not made this way are not actually shell cordovan, rather they are another part of the horse that has undergone the same tanning process.  The reason why shell cordovan can only be produced from the rump of a horse is because the skin fibers are tightest in this section, producing a very dense leather.

A Word About Color 8

Color 8 is a shade of burgundy that can be considered the flagship color for shell cordovan.  Often people refer to the color itself as "cordovan", even when not in reference to shell cordovan.  Not only does Color 8, or #8, as many also call it, exemplify the beauty of shell cordovan leather arguably better than any other shade, it is also said to be the most versatile.  #8 can just as easily be worn with either a charcoal or navy suit.

Note the unmistakeable shine of

shell cordovan exemplified by

this particular shade

Alden Perforated Cap Toe Balmoral in Shell Cordovan

The Alden Perforated Cap Toe Balmoral is formed on the Hampton Last.  It is considered a formal shoe, and is not really appropriate for casual attire.  The term Balmoral specifies that the shoe has a very narrow throat, where the laces are looped through a piece of leather that also forms the side of the shoe. The alternative design is called a "Blucher", where the laces are looped through separate leather flaps that are sewn on each side of the throat.

The Cap Toe Balmore is a conservative shoe with a little bit of flare, as compared to a strait-tip balmoral.

Model 9016

Alden Perforated Cap Toe Balmoral

Black Shell Cordovan

Model 9015

Alden Perforated Cap Toe Balmoral

Color 8(Burgundy) Shell Cordovan

Blucher left, Balmoral Right

Alden Tassel Moccasin in Shell Cordovan

Alden is often credited with inventing the Tassel Moccasin as it exists today.  The story is that following World War II, veterans returned from Europe seeking shoes that had tassels on the end of the laces, as they had seen while overseas.  However, no such thing existed in the United States. Two different retailers approached Alden and asked if they could produce such a design.  What they came up with is the Tassel Moccasin as we know it.  The design has been imitated by many other shoemakers.

Many consider the Tassel moccasin to be formal enough to wear with a suit, however it is generally worn casually.  Note that the welt disappears at the front of the heel.  This is known as a 270 [degree] welt, or a closed heel, and produces a sleeker, more formal profile.  The tassel moccasin is formed over the narrow Aberdeen last.

Model 563

Alden Tassel Moccasin

Color 8 (Burgundy)Shell Cordovan

Model 36630

Alden Tassel Moccasin

Cigar Shell Cordovan

Cigar is considered to be an "exotic color" and has limited availability.  Note that the retailers name is embossed on the insole (Alden of San Francisco).  This is typical of many "non-catalog" makeups.  "Catalog" makeups are available only in black and #8, and can be ordered through any Alden retailer.  Non-catalog models are often produced to the retailers specification, and no other retailer may order the same design.